Nothing happens. Not a click, not a crank, not a light. Before that turns into a tow, most of these have a simple cause that can be sorted in the driveway, and a couple you can try yourself while you wait.
Key will not turn
The steering lock is loaded
The most common cause by far. If the wheels were turned when the car was shut off, the steering lock is under tension and the key cannot rotate. Turn the steering wheel gently back and forth while turning the key. It will release.
The car is not in Park
An automatic that was shut off in Neutral, or not quite in Park, will not let the key turn and often will not release it either. Push the lever firmly into Park.
A worn key or worn lock cylinder
Keys wear, and so do the wafers in the cylinder. If a spare key works and the daily key does not, the key is worn. If no key works and the wheel is not locked, the cylinder is the problem. Do not force it. A key snapped in a cylinder is a worse day.
Key will not come out
Usually the shift interlock. The car will not release the key unless it believes it is in Park. A failed shift position switch, or a dead battery on a car whose interlock is electrical, keeps the key in. Many cars have a small manual release near the shifter for exactly this.
Push button does nothing
The fob battery
The car cannot hear the fob. Most cars have a backup — hold the fob against the start button, or a marked spot on the steering column, and press. The fob's chip is read directly, without its battery. If that works, replace the fob battery and you are done.
Not pressing the brake
The button only starts the car with the brake pedal pressed, or the clutch on a manual. Pressing it without the brake just turns the accessories on. If the brake lights are not working, the car may not see the pedal either — a failed brake light switch stops a push-button car from starting.
A dead car battery
Modern cars need a certain voltage to wake their modules. Below it, the button does nothing at all — no crank, sometimes no dash lights. A battery this flat is a different problem from a battery that clicks. Our post on car will not start: battery, alternator or starter goes through the difference.
The car is not in Park
Same as with a key. Electronic shifters in particular can be one notch off.
When it is really the ignition
Ignition switches fail electrically — the key turns, the dash lights come on, and nothing happens at the crank position, or the accessories cut out over bumps. Start buttons fail too, though less often. Both are diagnosed by checking what the switch is actually sending to the car when it is operated, which is a meter or scan tool job we do on site. See our electrical services.
One more cause worth ruling out before any part is named: the battery terminals. A clamp that is corroded under its cover can hold enough charge to light the dash and not enough to pass the current a start button or ignition switch asks for. Cleaning both terminals is the first thing we do on any no-response call, and it ends a fair number of them.
Frequently asked questions
Can you cut or program a key?
We diagnose why the car will not recognize or turn a key. Key cutting and fob programming vary by make, and we will tell you honestly whether it is us or a locksmith for your particular car.
My key turns but nothing happens, not even a click.
That is the starter circuit — a neutral safety switch, a relay, the starter itself, or a dead battery. Different problem from a key that will not turn.
Do you come to office parking decks?
Yes, where there is clearance and the building allows it. We do a lot of no-start calls in Uptown and Concord decks.
Serving Charlotte and Mecklenburg County. Call (754) 236-1714.
We come to you
Book Mobile Mechanic Auto Repair
Home, office lot, or wherever the car gave up — we bring the tools, the parts, and the scan tool to you across Charlotte & Mecklenburg County. Upfront quote before any wrench turns.